And, so the garden season begins

Magnoia 'Jane'

With a flourish, Spring opens her petals and waves her branches in a cheery hello. Even today’s cloudy skies can’t dim her enthusiasm. And, so the garden season begins.

'Jane' magnolia is the star of the front garden. I fertilized the grass this week with Milorganite, but it will take a few days before it turns a brighter green.
‘Jane’ magnolia is the star of the front garden. I fertilized the Fescue lawn this week with Milorganite, but it will take a few days before it turns bright green. I also overseeded it in anticipation of the rain forecast for yesterday afternoon.

The fruit trees are gorgeous this year. Must be all that winter rain and snow. We’re still in a drought, but at least, we got some moisture. Even if we get a late freeze, and I don’t get peaches, the blooms are so exquisite I would grow them anyway. If you’re going to have one spring-blooming tree in your front yard, make it a fruit tree. You may need two if it isn’t self pollinating. I wrote about this at length in my book,The 20-30 Something Garden Guide: A No-Fuss, Down and Dirty, Gardening 101 for Anyone Who Wants to Grow Stuff.

Peach blossoms are exquisite, and pollinators love them too. Garden season begins
Peach blossoms are exquisite, and pollinators love them too.
Forsythia x intermedia 'Linwood Gold'
Forsythia x intermedia ‘Linwood Gold’

Forsythia x intermedia ‘Linwood Gold’ is looking great in the front yard too. This is the first year it’s really bloomed with abandon. I planted it in 2011. That’s the same year I planted Cercis canadensis The Rising Sun™ redbud. One thing about the redbud that irritates me every year. Red Humped Caterpillars attack this specific variety with abandon so it looks terrible midsummer on. It must have the most tender leaves because the same caterpillar doesn’t ruin everything else. I will try my best to catch it this summer with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) before the damage gets too heavy. If you go look at that post and live in the middle South or Texas, don’t plant Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Fernspray Gold.’ I had to remove it this year. Chamis just aren’t happy here. I also killed Mahonia eurybracteata ‘Soft Caress.’

I make these stupid plant choices so you don’t have to.

Cercis canadensis The Rising Sun™ redbud before it shows its leaves. I planted it next to the driveway.
Cercis canadensis The Rising Sun™ redbud before it shows its golden leaves. I planted it next to the driveway.
A closeup of the golden spring leaves of The Rising Sun™ redbud from 2011.
A closeup of the golden spring leaves of The Rising Sun™ redbud from 2011.

Crocus give way to daffodils, and soon, the tulips will start lining up for their Easter parade. Tulipa ‘Passionale’ is already abloom. Note that I usually suggest growing late tulips. ‘Passionale’ is a Triumph type and blooms mid to late spring. I would say more on the middle side here. I fell in love with the color.

Tulipa 'Passionale'
Tulipa ‘Passionale’

With highs in the 70s and lows in the 40s, Spring dances like Cinderella going to the ball. By the by, if you haven’t seen the new Cinderella, it’s a treat–especially when the Fairy Godmother goes shopping in the vegetable patch for a suitable carriage.

Leucojum aestivum, a bulb everyone in Oklahoma should grow.
Leucojum aestivum, a bulb everyone in Oklahoma should grow.

Leucojum aestivum, above, chimes in early with its white bells. I think Leucojum would make wonderful earrings for Cinderella, don’t you?

Narcissus 'Pink Charm' And, so it begins
Narcissus ‘Pink Charm’

I don’t remember planting all of these daffodils with pink cups. When on Earth did I do that? Actually, I went back and looked at an order from 2013. I bought ‘Pink Charm’ narcissus from Van Engelen that fall. It’s described as a great naturalizer. Yeah, I guess so.

St. Francis in narcissus splendor.
St. Francis in narcissus splendor.

Last night’s thunderstorm wasn’t supposed to create more than straight winds and hail, but I guess no one told the tornadoes. There were several, but most were small. I did hear there was one fatality near Tulsa which is terribly sad. More damage south of me in Moore. I think I’m glad I don’t live in Moore although I’m sure it’s a nice community. They see a lot of tornadic activity.

This jonquil growing again iris foliage is ‘N. Early Louisiana.’ I bought it from Old House Gardens in 2008. It’s a tiny thing.

Narcissus 'Early Louisiana'
Narcissus ‘Early Louisiana’
Narcissus 'Mrs. Langtry'
This is another heirloom, N. ‘Mrs. Langtry.’ Yes, that Mrs. Langtry, Lily.

Hellebores are still blooming especially in areas with morning sun. I need to move some plants where they will get more sun. I have a bad spot in the front garden bed where there is just too much shade to grow nearly anything. Need to rethink it and dig up two nandinas that died there. If you can’t grow a nandina in a spot, that’s bad.

Speaking of bad, Brennan dug up three more roses for me. I heard that Will Rogers Park’s historic rose garden has lost every rose to Rose Rosette Disease. I haven’t driven there to see if it’s true, but I wouldn’t be surprised.

Helleborus x hybridus 'Berry Swirl' part of the Winter Jewels™ seed strain.
Helleborus x hybridus ‘Berry Swirl’ part of the Winter Jewels™ seed strain.

I’m only bringing this up because no matter how beautiful the garden, we all have our challenges and trouble spots. When trouble comes, I ponder what next to try, but I also don’t forget to enjoy the garden’s beauty one bloom at a time.

I wonder what Will Rogers Park staff has in mind for their historic garden. Happy Spring Everyone!

 

Garden questions from a reader moving to Oklahoma

Thanks for writing!

A reader, Molly, wrote me the sweetest email, and because I thought her questions reflected others I’d received, I thought I’d answer them here.  Her email is below:

Good day. I’m moving to Blanchard, OK this spring and need a crash course in red dirt gardening!

I’m an avid gardener currently living in SE Minnesota, home to beautiful black soil. I’ve gardened in Omaha, NE and Des Moines, IA too, over the past 20 years. I’ve always worked with zones 4-5, so am used to being very limited in my choices.

I need to become informed about soil prep and plant selection asap, as I chomp at the bit to get to my new place and start to work there. The place we are buying is outside Blanchard. It is a dream place of 5 acres on a rolling hill and with many oak trees. The soil has never been farmed or anything, and is covered in grass (native?).

Please let me know of any really good web sites I should check. I’ve been researching through the extension service. I just don’t want to waste time and money doing the wrong things in my new garden.

I’m wanting to grow an elegant shade garden of hostas, Japanese maples etc. and a sunny garden of yarrows, catmints, salvias, coneflowers and roses, etc. with plenty of ornamental grasses thrown in. Do these sound do-able?

Can lavenders and agastache live there? Maybe in an elevated bed? Which plants melt-out in the heat there?

Looking forward to your reply.

Sincerely,

Molly (last name deleted for privacy)
Stewartville, MN (negative 11 currently)

Double columbine with 'Wine and Roses' Weigela behind it
Double columbine with 'Wine and Roses' Weigela behind it

Hi Molly,

Wow, that’s cold.  It’s 28F here presently and cold enough thank you.

A move from MN to OK is a daunting task, and I wish you well.  For those who don’t know, Blanchard is southwest of Oklahoma City and is located in both Grady and McClain Counties.  Molly, here’s a copy of a Oklahoma Geological Survey for that area of Oklahoma.  Also, I wrote a post for Examiner.com about soil.  It would probably be helpful.

Achillea millefolium, common yarrow
Achillea millefolium, common yarrow

If I’m reading the Oklahoma Soil Texture map correctly, it appears that Blanchard has a mix of red clay, cobbly loam and loam which is good.  Red clay, by itself, is very difficult to work with.  As to your questions, yes, you can grow lavender and agastache in Oklahoma.  I always put them in a less watered area (I have an irrigation system), and I place some gravel in the bottom of the hole prior to planting to encourage good drainage.  You might also grow these great garden standbys.  Further, I love clematis, peonies, lilacs, daylilies, rudbeckia, spirea, purple smokebush . . . the list goes on and on.

Cotinus coggygria, purple smokebush

Good websites for Oklahoma gardening other than my blog and my Examiner page:

  1. All the Dirt on Gardening is a blog written by a garden writer living in Muskogee, Oklahoma.  She gives great advice.
  2. The Oklahoma State University Division of Agricultural Services has a lot of wonderful information, and their page on Gardening, Pests and Insect Management is a great resource.  The Extension Fact Sheets are good too, if a bit dry.
  3. Oklahoma Gardener magazine has good information.  One caveat, I write for them quite a bit, so I might be prejudiced.
  4. The Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide, by Steve Dobbs is an excellent resource, as is Best Garden Plants for Oklahoma, by Steve Owens, who owns Bustani Plant Farm. His website is a wealth of information too.
  5. Oklahoma author, Louise Riotte, was the companion planting queen, and she wrote several books.  Two of her best are Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening (vegetable garden companion planting) and Roses Love Garlic: Companion Planting and Other Secrets of Flowers.  These were two of the books I first bought when I started gardening.

These sources should get you started.

A raised bed with catmint in front

Raised beds are always a good idea here.  You can also amend the soil, but I find that when I bring in good garden soil or rich mix and then continue to amend it yearly, I have a much better garden.  Also, raised beds mean better drainage, and in Oklahoma, you want that extra help.  Of course, raised beds also dry out more quickly, so you will need some form of irrigation.  Because I have a lot of roses that don’t appreciate water on their leaves, I used soaker hoses for years.  A year ago, last fall, I got an irrigation system, and last summer was the easiest one I’d had yet.

I like to use shredded leaves on my garden, and if you have oak trees, you’ll have a lot of leaves.  A good compost pile helps any garden, and I’ve written several times on this subject.  I hope these links help.

A beautiful specimen of Acer palmatum dissectum 'Crimson Queen' at my friend's house

You said you wanted to grow a Japanese maple at your new home along with hostas and other elegant plants.  Japanese maples do well here if they are planted correctly and placed in the best shady place.  A lot of people must want to grow Japanese maples in Oklahoma because that is the most popular post on my blog for two years running.  Hostas are a bit tricky.  I have several, but the blue ones seem the most impervious to heat.  The variegated ones, especially those with yellow tend to burn even in the shade.  However, they can be grown in deep shade here.  Other plants I like for shade are ferns, especially my black-stemmed maidenhair fern, and a red-stemmed lady fern called ‘Lady in Red.’  These have been very prolific. I also like Aquilegia (columbine), coleus, Heuchera (coral bells), especially the more heat tolerant varieties like ‘Palace Purple’ and ‘Southern Comfort’ and ‘Midnight Rose’, hydrangeas like ‘Annabelle‘ and Euphorbias.  The shrub, Japanese kerria,  does well in either sun or shades.

Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle'

As for sun, there are lots of options.  I, of course, love roses, especially those which are easy care and disease resistant, and I grow a lot of them.  I also don’t know what I’d do without crapemyrtles.  You often see this shrub written as two words, but since Dr. Carl Whitcomb (crapemytle king of Oklahoma) says it should be one word, and the United States National Arboretum agrees with him, I write it as one.  Here are also six plants I can’t live without.

Echinacea purpurea 'Pink Double Delight'

In addition to the above, your list of sun-loving plants like:  yarrows, catmints, salvias, coneflowers and “plenty of ornamental grasses” are all very doable.  Oklahoma is part of the great North American prairie, and so prairie plants love it here.  These are all easy care.  My only advice is to put them in the sun and plant the Echinaceas (coneflowers) in your worst soil.  They don’t like rich mix.  Also, start with the purple ones.  If you want to grow some of the newer yellow, orange and red varieties, I’d try them one at a time.  We aren’t having much luck with many of them.  I do love ‘Coconut Lime’, ‘Pink Double Delight’, ‘Merlot’ and ‘Sundown’ so far.  ‘Tomato Soup’ and ‘Tiki Torch’ not so much.  I don’t think they’ll be back in spring.

Oh, and yes, some plants do melt in the heat, or just dry up and blow away.

Well, I hope that answered some of your questions, and I hope you’ll keep coming back to visit.  I love writing about living and gardening in Oklahoma.  I can’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be.  Hope your new acreage makes all your dreams come true.

Dee