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Firmly rooted in the Oklahoma soil

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Grow your own transplants from seed

One of the cheapest ways to garden in Oklahoma is to grow your own transplants from seed. Starting vegetable and flower seeds indoors isn’t as hard as you might think, and broken down into steps, the process is even more straightforward.

Pepper plants I transplanted into four-inch containers with a fine layer of grit. I dearly love grit because it helps the pots to retain moisture while keeping moisture away from plant stems. I buy chicken grit at the hardware store.

Step One

In the central part of Oklahoma, the transplant date for warm-weather crops is around April 20th. To know when to start tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, or any other seeds for that matter, check your seed packets and count back the days from the transplant date. 

Don’t forget to label seeds before planting. You can’t tell one tomato, pepper, or eggplant from another otherwise.

Step Two

Use good-quality, potting soil without extra fertilizer. Try potting soil from your local nursery. Often, they make their own mix of locally-sourced ingredients or can steer you to a good low-nutrient one. You can also use seed-starting soil, but it’s finer, sifted soil and may wash away when watered from above. Water from below for best results.

Starting seeds in recycled containers is an inexpensive way to grow transplants. Make sure containers are covered with clear plastic to increase seed germination.

Step Three

Choose your containers. Use recycled containers, or purchase Plant Growing Trays (No Drain Holes) and Seed Starter Trays, plus Plant Labels. Plastic to-go containers with lids like rotisserie chicken and lettuce containers also work well. For seed-starting trays, the Jiffy BC390507 Plant Start 72cell Dome Trays are deep and encourage good root growth. To keep plastic out of landfills, store and reuse containers after disinfecting them for at least ten minutes in a ten-percent bleach solution. Don’t forget plant tags and a water-resistant pen like a Sharpie. Also, don’t use Jiffy pots. They wick away moisture from your seedlings, and I can’t ever keep them watered enough.

Before using recycled containers, disinfect them in a bleach solution and remember to poke holes for drainage.

Step Four

Filling containers with moistened potting soil eliminates air pockets and helps seeds adhere to potting soil. If your tap water is chlorinated, consider using distilled water or let it stand 24 hours before using. I have well water so this isn’t a problem for me.

Grow your own transplants from seed.
Have a small garden? Look for combination seed packets like this Asian Eggplant Trio from Renee’s Garden Seeds with color-coded seeds inside.

Step Five

Now, comes the best part, seeds. If you’re already a gardener, you received loads of seed catalogs in January. Try not to overbuy. You’ll probably only require one packet of seeds per variety, and you’ll have leftovers. If you have a small garden, try the trio packages of seeds, like the Asian Eggplant Trio, from Renee’s Garden Seeds. If you plan to grow eggplant, it needs a heat mat to germinate like this VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10″ x 20.75″ MET Standard. To pick up seeds more easily, wet your finger and touch the seed you want.

Moisten your finger to pick up individual seeds. It works like a charm.

Push seeds down into the soil with your finger–the larger the seed, the deeper it’s planted. Some seeds require light to germinate so check your seed packet when sowing. For recycled containers and square seed trays, scatter seeds across the top and cover them with soil. Later, after your plants have true leaves, gently prick them out and place them in bigger pots. Top seeds with grit or vermiculite. It helps keep the soil moist, keeps seeds in place, and seems to slow fungus gnat egg production. Water seeds again and top them with clear plastic lids or Glad Press’n Seal plastic food wrap. In a few days, your seeds will spring into action, and you can remove the plastic. Wait until plants have their second set of leaves, which are their true leaves. The first two “leaves” to emerge from the seed are the cotyledon and are part of the seed’s embryo. Loosen the wrap as plants grow, so it doesn’t squish them.

Tomato seedlings with their cotyledon and first true set of leaves. You can now tell they are tomato plants.

Step Six

Place containers under lights, or in a south-facing window. Even with the window, they may become leggy. I use cool and warm spectrum fluorescent light bulbs from the hardware store. You can buy pricey grow lights, but they aren’t a requirement. Here’s a post I wrote about my seed-starting station. If growing in a window, turn your plants every day to grow straight and strong. Ace gardener, Monty Don from the UK’s Gardeners’ World, suggests covering cardboard with aluminum foil and bending it to make an L-shape. Tuck one end under your container toward the window directing reflected light from the foil onto your plants.

As plants grow, transplant them from smaller cells into four-inch containers.

Step Seven

As plants grow, transplant them into larger containers and begin hardening them off on a warm day. Place plants in a shaded spot on sunny days to keep them from burning. This is very important. Start with taking them outside for an hour and then increase the amount of time each day for a couple of weeks before actually planting them outside. 

Transplants hardening off outside in partial shade. Do not put these in full sunlight in Oklahoma, or they will die a miserable death.

That’s it! You’re now on your way to growing your own transplants. If you try it for yourself, you’ll find it cheaper than buying plants from the nursery. Plus, is there any job better than starting seeds? I don’t think so.

If you’d like to read about starting tomato seeds, here you go. Also, here is a link to the best and easiest vegetables to grow in Oklahoma. If you’ve just started gardening in Oklahoma, maybe these garden questions and answers will help.

See you soon!

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28 February, 2020 By Dee Nash

Filed Under: Featured, Gardening, Oklahoma Tagged With: Seed starting, Starting seeds, starting seeds indoors, transplantings seedlings, Transplants

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Marie at the Lazy W

    6 March, 2020 at 6:13 am

    Hi Dee!! As always you share super helpful details. I am going to try grit on my seed trays this year. Thank you. I bought warming mats for the first time, so excited to see how quickly things germinate wahoo! xoxo

    • Catherine Ida Schneider

      22 March, 2020 at 12:15 am

      Hi Dee,
      I have been following your blog for years from Long Beach, CA. We recently left the beautiful Pacific Ocean behind and moved to Meridian, Idaho. I moved from a beautiful large townhome to a big home with a backyard. I had my first experience with frozen ground here a few weeks ago when I was trying to put my bird feeders up on their pole. Couldn’t understand why I couldn’t poke the pole in the ground just like I always did!

      Well anyway, I just wanted to say how much I enjoyed seeing your picture at the end of the page tonight after reading your blog! I will be waiting for the snow to melt off the distant mountains before planting in the ground. I am trying to start some wildflower seeds in some bucket planters for now. I bring them out in the sun and then take them back in the garage for the night. I’ll try putting plastic wrap over them tomorrow. Thanks for the tip

  2. Lisa

    28 February, 2020 at 1:43 pm

    Great info! Now that I’m in Virginia I have to find a good local here like you!

    • Dee Nash

      29 February, 2020 at 10:29 am

      Oh, I bet you can Lisa! This post will work in Virginia too though. 🙂 Just figure your average frost date and count backward.

  3. Faith Harmon

    28 February, 2020 at 11:46 am

    Thank you for your information. I have been using the Jiffy Pots for years for starting my plants so I am going to try different ones this year. I live here in Oklahoma so I really enjoy reading your posts about gardening here!

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