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St. Francis Basilica

Beautiful Catholic pilgrimage: Assisi

I’ve been away for a couple of weeks on a beautiful Catholic pilgrimage in Assisi. It’s always been our dream to visit Rome and Assisi. Everything aligned, and Bill, Claire and I went for ten days with Fr. Cory Stanley and the good people of Prince of Peace Parish in Altus and St. Helen in Frederick, Oklahoma. Fr. Stanley lived in Rome for several years, and he was a great spiritual guide, who could also speak Italian. Fr. Joseph Schwarz was our other wonderful spiritual guide. Our main tour guide was Alessandro Pietro Gaj. He and Luciano, our fantastic, amazing bus driver, made our trip the best it could be. The tour company is 206 Tours, and they specialize in pilgrimages. I can’t say enough nice things about this company.

Bill and Bear on the plane to Assisi and Rome. We were very excited even if they don't look like it.
Bill and Claire on the plane to Assisi and Rome. We were very excited even if they don’t look like it.

Our tour was customized by Fr. Stanley. We flew to Rome and then traveled for 2.5 hours to Assisi where St. Francis and St. Clare lived, walked and prayed. I thought I’d share a few photos with you of our trip. We stayed for three days in Assisi at St. Anthony’s Guesthouse. The Franciscan Sisters of the Atonement were wonderful and so helpful during our stay. The guesthouse is centrally located near the Basilica of St. Clare and inside the oldest city walls.

We had mass at the tomb of St. Francis and St. Clare, which are in separate basilicas at the ends of the town.

Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels in which the Portiuncula is located.
Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels in which the Portiuncula is located.

If I’m remembering correctly, the first day we visited the Portiuncula, a small chapel within the basilica of St. Mary of the Angels, located about a mile below Assisi in the valley. Portiuncula, which means “a small portion” of land also refers to the town built around the church. This part of Italy is full of small towns built mostly on hillsides because of historic warring factions, but the Portiuncula is in a small valley.

Inside St. Mary of the Angels. You can just barely see the Portiuncula inside.
Inside St. Mary of the Angels. You can just barely see the Portiuncula inside.
The Roselo, or Rose Garden at Our Lady of the Angels where legend has it that St. Francis threw himself into the thorns to stop temptation. The roses supposedly quit having thorns.
The Roselo, or Rose Garden at St. Mary of the Angels where legend has it that St. Francis threw himself into the thorns to stop temptation. The roses supposedly quit growing thorns. It was too early for bloom, but our daily guide told us they bloom in all colors. I can attest they had no prickles on the day we visited. I don’t know the variety.
Crest of the Portiuncula in the courtyard of St. Mary of the Angles.
Crest of the Portiuncula in the courtyard of St. Mary of the Angles.

We weren’t allowed to take a photo of the Portiuncula from inside the church, but we were allowed to take one outside. (Click on the photos in the galleries to make them larger.) The monks and sisters are very strict in the churches of Assisi which makes sense. Otherwise, as we saw in Rome, people do foolish things in holy places. On this trip, I also didn’t lug around my good cameras. I only brought my iPhone so all the photos are taken with it. I just wanted to experience everything without having my neck ache.

The amazing thing about Assisi is how it hasn’t changed. No one felt the need to come in and tear down buildings. Instead, it feels very much like it did when St. Francis and St. Clare and their contemporaries lived there in the 13th Century. It also smelled wonderful, and the only sounds I heard most days were the bells ringing from the churches along with conversation on the streets.

I stood at the window of our room and took many photos and just breathed in the peace that surrounds this ancient city.

Except for the traffic.

Tiny cars whizzing down tiny streets don’t leave much room for pilgrims on the road. Constantly, someone in our group was shouting “Car, car!” just in time for us to flatten ourselves against a 13th Century building. You think I jest, but I do not. It was frankly a bit scary. Italian drivers are completely different from American ones. Not worse, just different. Wait until I share about Rome.

Beautiful Italian countryside from the walls of Assisi.
Bella Italian countryside from the walls of Assisi.

We had a wonderful time and spent a lot of our days in Assisi in the Basilica of Saint Francis and the Basilica of Saint Clare. As I wrote above, we had mass at both of their tombs. While we were in St. Francis’ Basilica, I had the strangest feeling that my former pastor, Rev. John A. Petuskey, was with us. When Bill and I were a young married couple, he always told us stories about Assisi and said he would take us with him to travel there one day. We were young and broke and had four kids. We never thought we’d ever get the chance, but he kept telling us we would. I remember also he was heartbroken when Assisi was hit by an earthquake and parts of the churches were destroyed, but he said we still had to go. When he died, I remember thinking that he wouldn’t get to share his favorite place on Earth with us. So, imagine my surprise when I was on the upper level of the basilica gazing up at the frescoes of Giotto on the life of St. Francis, I felt Fr. Petuskey with me. It was as if he were standing right next to me. Later, I mentioned this to Bill, and he said he felt exactly the same thing at the same time. Maybe God let the veil down long enough for us to have Father with us. I like to think so. He meant so much to our young family. I think Father would be so happy we finally got to Assisi at least with our youngest daughter, Claire. She was named after St. Clare, and Father Petuskey always loved that. He gave our Claire an image of St. Clare when she was baptized along with a San Damiano cross.

Claire on a busy Assisi street. Ok, it's not busy now, but you can see why it was terrifying when cars came by. There was no need for a shoulder in earlier centuries.
Claire on a busy Assisi street. Ok, it’s not busy now, but you can see why it was terrifying when cars came by. There was no need for a shoulder in earlier centuries.
Another beautiful Assisi road with container gardens.
Another beautiful Assisi road with container gardens.
IMG_0664
Another great Assisi photo op. Check out the Vespas.
Another great Assisi photo op. Check out the Vespas.
Bill and Claire looking too cool in their shades in front of the Basilica of St. Francis. We were getting ready to walk into mass, but had to wait for them to open.
Bill and Claire looking too cool in their shades in front of the Basilica of St. Francis. We were getting ready to walk into mass, but had to wait for them to open.
Front doors of St. Francis Basilica in Assisi. I don't think I was allowed to take photos inside.
Front doors of St. Francis Basilica in Assisi. I don’t think I was allowed to take photos inside, but I linked to some of the frescoes.
Part of our group walking down to the Basilica of St. Francis. We went on this trip with the good people of Prince of Peace Parish in Altus, OK. We are now such great friends.
Part of our group walking down to the Basilica of St. Francis. We went on this trip with the good people of Prince of Peace Parish in Altus, OK. We are now such great friends.
St. Mary of the Angels is in the distance. I took this while standing in the courtyard of St. Francis' Basilica.
St. Mary of the Angels is in the distance. I took this while standing in the courtyard of St. Francis’ Basilica.

We also ate amazing food every single day chased with caffè (espresso.) I forgot to take a single picture of my food, or my tiny cups of coffee while we were in Assisi. I did get a photo of this beautiful bowl I bought for my daughter, Megan, for her wedding present.

Bowl from I Due Soli - Italian Ceramics in Assisi.
Bowl from I Due Soli – Italian Ceramics in Assisi. It’s funny that Kitchen Aid is in the bottom of the photo. Couldn’t see that on my phone. It’s our dishwasher label.

I bought her bowl from I Due Soli, which was on one of the three main streets in the old town of Assisi. What a wonderful shop it was! As an aside, Italians are mad for Trip Advisor and use it all the time. It was easy to track down the shop on Trip Advisor’s website. If you go there, ask for Ricardo. He speaks beautiful English and is very helpful. I think this ceramics company is in its third generation.

I hope I haven’t bored you with my pilgrimage/travelogue so far. We loved Assisi and look forward to visiting again. When I get a moment, I’ll also share about Orvieto and Rome, among other places. As for gardening, we received two inches of rain last night. The weeds are quite happy and growing.

 

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29 March, 2017 By Dee Nash

Filed Under: Gardening Tagged With: Assisi, Basilica of Saint Claire, Basilica of Saint Francis, Catholic, Italian pottery, Italy, Pilgrimage

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jennifer K.

    5 April, 2017 at 6:05 pm

    Thank you for sharing! We will be there in June 2017!

  2. Robin Ruff Leja

    31 March, 2017 at 8:41 pm

    What an interesting trip you had! I particularly like that view of the countryside. Wow.

  3. JessB

    31 March, 2017 at 8:34 am

    Completely off topic, but I just found your blog and went to the 20-30 something page-love it! Your garden pictures are so beautiful and informative. It seems you aren’t active over there anymore so I hope you also do posts like that on this site now?

    • Dee Nash

      31 March, 2017 at 9:36 am

      Hi Jess and welcome! I started that blog two years ago when I wrote my gardening book, The 20-30 Something Garden Guide. Although I enjoy writing on that blog, it never got the following that RDR has. If you go into my search bar and type almost any gardening topic, you’ll find dozens of posts here. I’ve written vegetable and ornamental posts for ten years, and I plan to continue over here. I’m not sure what I want to do with the other blog. It’s too much for me to keep up with both of them. Thanks so much for stopping by!

  4. Beth @ PlantPostings

    30 March, 2017 at 9:41 pm

    Beautiful images! (I love the bowl.) What a wonderful story, too. This must have been the trip of a lifetime. 🙂

  5. Rose

    30 March, 2017 at 8:16 am

    What a thrilling experience this must have been for you! I mentioned on your Facebook post that I visited Assisi as part of the school tour I went on with my daughter and other high schoolers about 13 years ago. We were only there for a few hours, but I remember just loving this place, from the serenity inside the cathedral to the narrow streets to the beautiful views of the countryside. I also remember one of the group couldn’t go inside the church because she was wearing shorts. We also stopped at a ceramic outlet along the way to Rome; I still have a couple pieces I bought there. The bowl you bought for Megan is gorgeous!

  6. Cheryl Weintraub

    29 March, 2017 at 7:08 pm

    . .love, love, love!! thanks for sharing!!

    • Dee Nash

      30 March, 2017 at 6:52 am

      Thank you Cheryl! I’ll be posting more in coming weeks.

  7. Lisa Greenbow

    29 March, 2017 at 6:03 pm

    This is not boring. It sounds and looks like great fun and a spiritually uplifting trip. I so enjoy seeing places you have been through your camera and interpretation.

    • Dee Nash

      30 March, 2017 at 6:53 am

      Thank you Lisa. I was a little afraid that it was too much like vacation pictures. No one wants to see someone’s vacation slides.

  8. Jean

    29 March, 2017 at 4:11 pm

    I wasn’t bored at all! Sounds like it was a wonderful trip. The first time we went to Italy our housemates went to Assisi but we sat out that trip. I remember they were really moved by it even though they weren’t Catholic. I wish I had joined them. Love the ceramic you bought. We brought back lots of it from Deruta. 🙂

    • Dee Nash

      30 March, 2017 at 6:53 am

      Jean, Assisi is a moving place no matter what your faith or life experiences are. You can’t help but be moved I think.

  9. Carol

    29 March, 2017 at 2:55 pm

    Never boring, Dee, to go along with you on one of your amazing blog posts. Thank you for sharing Assisi with us!

    • Dee Nash

      30 March, 2017 at 6:54 am

      Thank you Carol. I’m glad it wasn’t boring. It was an amazing experience.

  10. Leslie

    29 March, 2017 at 2:55 pm

    I love seeing your photos..I also love Assisi. I got chills reading the part about Father Petuskey. I am so glad you were able to do this!

    • Dee Nash

      30 March, 2017 at 6:55 am

      Leslie, he was one of the most important people in our lives. He’s why we have four children for example. He was a good, smart and kind priest. Someday, I’ll share his heaven story. It’s priceless.

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